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How-To frame (and raise) a tiny house wall

by andrewodom on May 22, 2012 · 15 comments


  • S.Taylor

    Doesn’t most framing use a double top plate..?

    • Andrew Odom

      Most do; absolutely. Lately though I have heard (and seen) a few projects (mostly sticks and bricks sub-division houses) that do not. How it passes code? I have NO idea!

    • Michael

       Depends…
      If your rafters are going directly over the wall studs a double top plate may not be necessary (check local building codes in your area).  The purpose of the double top plate is two fold.  It better distributes the weight above it down to the wall studs (such as rafters on 19.2 or 24 inch centers).  It also stiffens the wall by “locking” the top of the wall together.  The second top plate bridges the cuts in the plate below it making everything more rigid.

      • Andrew Odom

        Great thought Michael. Great thought. Ours were used primarily to lock the top of the wall together. 

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=576916498 Andy Hawkins

      I’ve always used a double top plate. 

      If you don’t then you are relying solely on your nails not getting pulled out to hold the walls together. With a second top plate you can overlap the corners and they become much stronger. You would essentially have to shear the nails that go through both top plates to separate your walls.

  • http://mmgoldenart.com/ Melinda

    Not sure if it’s just me, but when it got to the video showing you, there’s an echo.

    • Andrew Odom

      I think it is just you Melinda. HAHAHA. No, it could very well be me. I shoot the videos with my iPhone so I don’t have much control over audio, etc. I do apologize. Perhaps try viewing it on the YouTube channel?

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=576916498 Andy Hawkins

    Jack stud = stud length minus double header? 

    ONLY if you want the top of your window or door to be the height of a double header below the top of your wall.
     
    It would be more accurate to say Jack stud = height from floor to top of rough opening MINUS 1 1/2″ for sill plate.

    • Andrew Odom

      Oh NOOOOO. You are right. I didn’t even catch that. Oh my. Now I am going to be the laughing stock. Oh well. We all make mistakes. I tried. At least the house construction turned out right. HAHAHA. Seriously, thank you Andy for catching that. 

  • Don Beams

    Question:  Are there any building codes in any local jurisdiction that actually apply to trailers or even to houses under 250  sq.ft. , which because of that size are sometimes exempted?    I would have thought that Federal ANSI codes for travel trailers would be the applicable codes.  Even so, good engineering, not over-engineering, is a smart way to go.

    That being said, are you going to use hurricane strapping to attach your bottom plate and every third stud (48″ spacing) to the trailer frame?  Also hurricane ties to the rafters directly above every third stud?    I ‘m not sure if that is a current ANSI requirement, but still not a bad idea…

    Other things to consider if you build another tiny mobile..  I placed a blue plastic ridged and compressible sheet (can’t remember the brand name)  which comes in rolls about 6″w. and 30′ long, which I hand stapled to the top and side of the deck before attaching the base plate.  It goes VERY fast. This will stop air infiltration between the deck/ bottom plate and your exterior sheathing/deck and save a good chunk of money and a little time on caulking, and it doesn’t stink like clear silicone seal.

    I built my personal mobile on a frame that I salvaged from a 1988 26′ travel trailer, which I demo’d.   I was literally stunned at how crappy the framing was.  Once I got the aluminum skin off, I realized you could grab the studs with one hand and literally pull them out by giving them a quick twist.   I came to the conclusion that the only thing holding it together was the aluminum skin and more caulking than I have ever seen in one place.  

    I posted some new pics on my Facebook page yesterday as we finished electrical and plumbing stub-ins and almost finished insulating the exterior envelope.   Check it out if you have a moment… which you probably don’t, now that I think of it.      Great job you are doing Andrew, and a service to all of us with your blog and video updates.  Thanks.

    • Andrew Odom

      Hey there Don. Great to hear from you. I have seen those pics you are talking about. Man, you are really creating something wonderful! 

      To my knowledge there is not a SINGLE building code for anything under 250 sq. ft. as they are typically considering outbuilding, non-traditional structures, or sheds. Regarding federal ANSI, there is one I think may be somewhat applicable. It is called ‘Trailers, Living Quarters: Self-Contained, Modified Commercial’ (MIL-T-46768D) but it is $25 and I have not purchased it to read. 

      You are right though. Smart engineering is just enough, methinks. 

      We actually used hurricane strapping on every stud. Overengineering? Maybe. Hmmmm….. But it makes me feel better. I didn’t really cover that in a video or blog post. Perhaps I should. I just feel like those things are at the discretion of the builder. I feel that way about insulation too. We don’t even intend on leaving the Southeast region so our insulation needs are fairly different from someone in Washington state, you know? 

      In regards to your blue substrate. That sounds very similar to what our EcoFoil Double Bubble radiant barrier is doing. But I could be wrong. If you find a photo or remember the name, please let me know. We are still at a stage that we could add that. 

      We bought our trailer with the RV already taken off so I didn’t get the pleasure of seeing just how crappy (read: scary, even) it was built. Now that you mention it, I am glad I didn’t. I may have turned the other way and ran. HAHAHHAHA. But that is why we aren’t living in RVs and are building framed homes on trailers I reckon. Man, I can’t even imagine just twisting a stud off. 

      I totally have time to look at your stuff. I think you are designing something awesome and I am completely jealous that you have worked a digi piano in. I guess if we didn’t have a daughter I could have used that space. HAHAHAHAH

      Thanks for all of your support Don!

  • John Mauldin

    Having owned everything from popups to RV’s and all in between (currently a fifth wheel) it is incredible that even the “top of the line” companies in the RV industry build such crap. So the comments about construction are “right on”.

    Hurricane strapping is essential, in my opinion.

    The blue insulation, also made in 4×8 sheets of rigid material was first used in the funeral industry. The used it in caskets because the white foam insulation they used would absorb water and degrade.

    A friend, who owns over 100 RV parks around the US and regularly meets with various municipalities recommends all tiny houses have at least a five gallon clean water and sewage tanks incorporated into the building of these which most often insures it will be viewed as an RV for taxation purposes. Well, I don’t own a hundred RV parks so I have to say he is likely smarter and more informed than me so consider it.

    Finally, I like your site and the information you disseminate. Keep up the good work! Thanks!

    • Andrew Odom

      Thank you so much John for your input. While I personally agree with you regarding hurricane strapping, I guess I just figured folks would do that anyway. Perhaps I am sadly mistaken. As much as I hate to say it…I guess I need to make another video! HAHAHAHAH. 

      As for the water and sewage. Not a bad idea at all. In fact, quite smart. We are hoping to fall in under mobile home as once our build is finished on our land it will equal out to over 300 ft. We’ll see how it all pans out though in the long run as there are still elements I haven’t revealed yet.

      100 RV parks? WOW! That is awesome! Would he like a 30′ tiny house to come manage one and live on premises? 

      And thank you sir for the compliment. Part of the reason we have such a good site is because of loyal supporters like yourself. Thank you.

  • http://www.cozyhomeplans.com/ Kevin Harrington

    As usual, another great video and explanation of tiny house construction Andrew.  A few things to remember though is adding a ½” of filler in the letter A ‘double header” because the two 2×4’s set vertically will still be to narrow.  Also depending on the span… let’s say a 5’ window, increasing the header size to a 2×6 would be highly recommended for support the weight above and never worrying about future sag.
    Letter D “bottom/sill plate” is typically pressure treated lumber to aid against moisture infiltration, but probably not necessary for a tiny house on wheels… Moisture will have a hard time making the 2’ leap up I would think. But if you’re into stick and bricks, keep that in mind.
    Keep up the great work!

    • Andrew Odom

      Thank you Kevin.

      You know what? I didn’t even mention that the 2″x4″s used in the double header are set vertically. You are so right. And of course that leave a little space. Man, I feel like I blew this video. I hope it at least gave the general idea though. I never claimed to be an expert. HAHAHAHAH. 

      As for Letter D. Yeah, you are right. If I were building on a foundation I would use pressure treated. But because our trailer is wrapped with EcoFoil I didn’t feel like it was necessary. Could be a good point of discussion though for others. 

      Thank you for the support my friend. I’ll keep pressing on!

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